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Defining the Spanish Spanish Culture and News

National “caracter” – Spanish girls take no s**t…

The Spanish do not suffer fools gladly. Spanish women do not suffer fools in any way whatsoever! They know instinctively and immediately when someone is messing them around and they will not stand for it. Examples include setting a bill straight when a surly waiter has added one too many coca colas, dealing with someone who has pushed into a queue, and whipping useless customer service reps into shape when a phone call isn’t going to plan. Telefonica hasn’t sorted out your internet connection in time? Got a Spanish girlfriend/flatmate? Get her on the case!

Now this is by no means meant as criticism. As long as you aren’t on the sharp end of a determined Spaniard it’s a marvel to behold, and in my case, Marina’s abilities in this field have saved us hundreds if not thousands of Euros and sorted out endless problems.

But what is it that makes the Spanish woman so strong? It has been suggested that it’s a back-lash against years of macho oppression by the chauvinist Franco regime, or perhaps it’s just a Spanish version of feminism. It is almost certainly a reaction to the fact that Spanish women know they have to put up a good fight in a country where they still face promotion glass ceilings at work, and are usually paid one third less than their male counterparts, even in multinational companies.

Whatever the case, as you get deeper into Spanish culture, you will often hear reference to a person’s carácter, a word that doesn’t refer to personality as a whole, but that fiesty bit in all of us that wells up to sort out annoyances. “¡Qué carácter tienes, macho!“, Marina tells me when I’m in a bad mood, to which I’ll reply, “Carácter, me???”

But Carácter gets money knocked off bills and internet connections installed faster, and keeps husbands doing their share of the work in the kitchen. I hope this post celebrates the famous national carácter, but I’m still left wondering, will I get into trouble when my Spanish wife reads it? 😉

Categories
Spanish Culture and News

Suicidal Spanish Sunday Drivers

I can’t remember what the figure is up to now, but every time we drive up from Madrid to the in-laws place in the Sierra, a digital display across the highway reminds us and the other drivers pouring out of the city how many people have died in road accidents this year. I think the number is hovering around 1900, and today we nearly saw it increase by a good few right in front of our eyes.

Near death experience no. 1 involved a suicidal fool in a sporty hatchback cut-in on the car in front of us at the very very last minute and at insane speeds in order to get into a slightly less congested and walled off central carriageway. He miraculously missed the car and the sturdy bollards delineating the end of the slip road by inches and sped off into the distance.

Shortly afterwards Darwin-award contender number two nearly side-swiped us off the road at a roundabout as he entered the sweeping curve at a hellish speed, nearly flipping as he squeezed past us on two screeching wheels. He slowed down considerably once he got past us, having obviously scared himself, and us, half to death. At least that is how it seemed from the safe distance we immediately put between us and him, until he reached the next roundabout, and performed the exact same maneuver!

Finally, 10 minutes later, we had the pleasure of encountering your average psychotic mega-SUV-driving imbecile, who undertook us at high speed just as the lane he was in ended at the top of a winding hill. Would his lunch have got all that much colder (or his next beer that much warmer) if he’d filtered in patiently behind us, like anyone else with half a brain, half a sense of self-preservation, and half a right to hold a drivers license?

We arrived in one piece, but distinctly nervy. What happens to these people when they get behind the wheel of a car? Is it just that they know instinctively that in Spain there is a 99% percent chance that they will never be caught performing illegal and potentially lethal moves like these? Do they suffer total amnesia the moment they pass their tests and their driving instruction comes to an end?

Personally I think it is the lack of harsh policing on Spain’s roads. There may be more speed cameras around and the odd breathalysing brigade out on a weekend night in the big cities, but it obviously isn’t getting through to the likes of those who so deftly showed us their desire to wipe themselves and others off the face of the earth this morning.

Then again what can you do in a country that introduces a points system to try and remove licenses from bad drivers, but only takes 6 of the available 12 points away from drunk drivers, who are then free to go out, drink up, and head off into the wild once more?

Update: “UK drivers caught texting could get 2 years behind bars” (link) – This is the sort of thing that makes UK driving a hell of a lot safer. I’m all for Draconian policing on the roads

Categories
notes

Our Advanced Spanish Podcasts are back!

Just a quick bit of news from our sister site Notes in Spanish. After a long break over the summer our Advanced Spanish podcasts are back!

Listen to the latest episode here, or read the full news bulletin in the forum.

Have a good weekend 🙂

Categories
Notes from Spain Podcast Spanish Culture and News

The Bragas Factory – Notes from Spain Podcast 63


[Download MP3]

Bragas

Retro-casting from our terrace, Ben talks about honesty in bars, gypsies, knickers factories, and the future of tourism in Spain.

Relevant links:

  • BBC news on the closure of the Delphi car parts plant in Cadiz
  • The closure of the knickers factory in Ronda (La Fabrica de las Bragas) harks back to the wonderful Jamon Jamon
  • La costa española es un lugar ideal para venir a morir: Houellebecq on the death of tourism in Spain, in El Pais
  • Discuss the last point, on the future of tourism in Spain, in our forum
Categories
Spain links

September 2nd Links

The Spanish royal family is under attack over their financial affairs.

“House prices in Spain have risen at a faster pace than anywhere else in the eurozone over the past five years”… from the Guardian.

South of Watford suggests you take care if flying into Madrid Sur airport – could be an expensive mistake!

Off topic: Have a look at my great friend Tom’s website, Earthoria, from Thailand 🙂

Categories
notes

9 and 35

Yesterday marked the 9 year anniversary of my arrival in Spain. Moving here was the best decision I ever made. I remember that on the day I left my friend Jono took me to the station in Waterloo to take the train to Paris, from where I would take another to Madrid. He told me that I was incredibly brave, which I thought sounded ridiculous. It didn’t feel brave, it felt completely insane! Anyway, the photo on the left is me at the Jerez sherry fiesta in May this year, in my element, en mi salsa, feeling pretty damn good about having made that move. If you are thinking about doing something similarly insane, just do it! Things can only go horribly wrong, but chances are they will go horribly right.

Oh, and I’m 35 today, and still feeling about 28, thanks, no doubt, to the good life in Spain 🙂

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notes

Are Spanish Paradors worth it?

Paradors put stickers everywhere!

Spain’s state-owned Parador hotel chain is supposed to offer a selection of the finest hotels the country has to offer, often in beautifully restored historic buildings. There is usually a restaurant of varying quality within, and rooms tend to be spacious and clean (especially the bathrooms, where hygiene labels are slapped on everything – see above!)

But Paradors are increasing in price, and are not the bargain they used to be. Typical summer rates hover around the 130 Euros mark, and the big guns like Granada and Santiago de Compostella can charge over 300 for a room. Yes, you can sign up for the “under 30” or “5 night card” special deals, but only if you can work out the mind-boggling chart that supposedly explains when to make the most of these. So the question remains, are Paradores worth it?

Well, what makes a Parador worth paying for? It’s either the location or the building, and preferably both. Staying in an old castle, for example, is cool, especially when it has exceptional views over endless dry plains. With this in mind, below are two lists, including all the Paradors we have stayed in, explaining why we think these Paradors are either worth the cash, or worth avoiding. Hopefully you can help expand to the lists in the comments.

Paradors worth the money

  • Malaga Gibralfaro – Stunning location, amazing views of city and sea, great pool
  • Jarandilla de la Vera – Beautiful old castle in a quiet town
  • Carmona – Stunning views of the Andaluz plains, peaceful Andaluz town
  • Santiago de Compostella – … if you can afford one of the good rooms…
  • Gredos – Lost in the sierra north-west of Madrid, real escapism – not for all tastes!
  • Trujillo – Peace and quiet in an old convent in a pleasant Extramaduran town

Paradors worth skipping

  • Cadiz – Overpriced modern monstrosity
  • Argómaniz – Boredom in the Basque country
  • Siguenza – Lovely old castle, nearly makes the mark, but the town is a little dull
  • Arcos de la Frontera – Again, so nearly makes it, with amazing views and a picture-perfect white washed town, but finding a cockroach crawling over my bed at 4 a.m. tips this one off this list

To locate all of these check out the Parador list and map at the Parador website. Can you help to expand on these lists from your own experiences?

Categories
Notes from Spain Podcast Spain Travel

Abadia Retuerta Vinyard – Ribera del Duero – Notes from Spain podcast 62


[Download MP3]

Abadia Retuerta vinyard - Ribera del Duero

Ryan from catavino.net (best Spanish wine info on the net!) thought we might like to spend a day wandering around a vinyard and tasting wine… he was right!

Check out the podcast, and if you would like to visit the abbey and vinyard, full details are available at the Abadia Retuerta website (they also have a wine blog!) Check out more of our photos from the trip here, and view the map below to find out where to locate Sardon del Duero (the vinyard is just to the east of Sardon on the main road – click on the blue marker and use the controls to enlarge). Cheers!


View Larger Map

Categories
Madrid Spain Travel

La Latina bars, Madrid, and Google Maps

Google has just released a new mapping feature that I’ve been waiting for for ages, and is going to work really well on this blog. You can now embed their maps in the same way as you can add youtube videos to blogs, with a simple snippet of code. Here is my map of some great bars in the La Latina area of Madrid. Click on the blue flags for more details, use the controls to zoom in, out etc, click and hold to drag the map around… great stuff:


View Larger Map

Categories
Spanish Culture and News

Live Bullfighting Scrapped from State TV

According to Giles Tremlett in Madrid, the Spanish broadcaster TVE has decided that it might not be a good idea to broadcast live fights at a time when lots of kids watch TV. Seems insanely sensible to me.