Categories
Spanish Culture and News

Notes: “Un-touched Spain” Found, and the New Spanish Anthem

Many thanks to all of you that submitted ideas on where to find “Untouched Spain” – I have updated the map on the original post.

Also Found, Lyrics for the Spanish National Anthem

“Spain has finally found the words to match its national anthem – which has been lyric-less since 1978 … The winning words, written by Paulino Cubero, an unemployed 52-year-old Madrid resident, try to be all things to all people.” Full article in The Guardian.

The lyrics do sound a little… um… well, you decide: “Long live Spain!… Love the Fatherland… Glory to the sons, who have given to history, justice and greatness, democracy and peace…” (Full lyrics in English in the Guardian piece, and in Spanish here.)

Categories
Spanish Culture and News

How much TV do you watch?

The answer in our house at the moment is a big fat Zero as our TV has just broken.

Apparently though the biggest TV watchers in Spain are down in Andalusia, where the average is nearly 4 hours a day, or 236 minutes, which is just above the national average of 223 minutes, an average which is slightly skewed by the vast majority of over-65-year-olds in Spain who watch over 5 hours of god-knows-what (adverts?) per day. (More stats here, in Spanish).

Young people watch barely 2 hours per day, as they are too busy chatting each other up on the internet (most of Spain has gooood broadband).

Anyway, back to the harsh reality that has befallen our household. The TV has broken. While we usually watch at least one film or episode of some US export (Desperate Housewives, Heroes etc) every night, the lack of TV led to a particularly pleasant evening last night, flicking through old coffee table books and listening to music.

But how long can we hold out? There’s got to be a 32 inch HDTV with our name on it somewhere in the Corte Ingles…

How important is the TV in your lives?

Categories
Spain Travel

Where can I find “untouched Spain?”

Lost in Soria
Photo: Lost and Found in Soria

There was a time when Spain was remarkably different to anywhere else. Crossing the Pyrenees was like crossing to another continent. Spain was in every sense more arid, uncommercial, pure… less affected. Even some of the Spanish joked that Spain was closer to Africa than to Europe, and not just geographically.

Yet these days Madrid, that just 10 years ago felt like a mishmash of small, friendly towns with one or two big roads in the middle, roars like London. And the Mediterranean coast is one long, crooked urban sprawl. And it seems like Seville and Barcelona only care about screwing money out of tourists.

But now I’m starting to sound like those insanely annoying people that say: “if only you’d seen Spain ten twenty thirty years ago…” Don’t you just hate it when people tell you that?

What if you want to see places where Spain still really looks like Spain today? Then you are in luck!

You only have to wonder around the barrio of Malasaña in Madrid to find an area that is still timelessly Madrileño, and you just have to stray 2 minutes from the tourist-hell of Barcelona’s Rambla to see the deliciously seedy Raval and feel like you’re on another, much more interesting planet. And you simply have to drive far enough inland from any coastal building site to find those same beautiful hillsides that always looked so raw and ‘Un-European’.

Here are the first few places I’d tell someone to look for “untouched Spain” if they asked for directions, maybe you can help me out:

1. Soria, town and province – largely undiscovered, even by me!

2. Ourense, town and province – if you are passing through Galicia… a town and province by the same name, both rough-hewn from ganite and rain.

3. Teruel, town and province – so far off the beaten track that even the locals aren’t sure if it exists anymore…

4. Extremadura – wild, vast, full of lushous landscapes and fine ham!

5. ??? – Yes, over to you again: tell us where to find “untouched Spain”, and I’ll add your suggestions to the map below!

For locations and details, click on the blue markers on the map below:

Categories
Living in Spain

Is this the year you will move to Spain?

Bolonia beach
Photo: Bolonia beach, another great reason to move to Spain!

10 years and 5 days ago I stepped foot on mainland Spain for the first time. It was December 31st 1997, and my destination was San Sebastian. 4 days later I was back in the UK with one thing on my mind, moving to the incredible country I had just discovered as soon as possible.

It took me 9 months to pluck up the courage to do anything about it, but eventually, in September ’98, I arrived in Madrid, a move I have never regretted for one minute.

Is this the year you are considering a similar move? If so, here are a few pointers that might help:

1. The idea of moving to another country is terrifying. That’s normal. The reality is much less scary. Once you arrive, you’ll be way too busy settling in and having fun to feel worried, scared or unsure of your decision anymore. So never let the fear put you off.

2. Of the many countries I have visited or spent time in, I have no doubt that Spain is one of the easiest places on earth to set up a new life in. Why? Not sure. Maybe it’s that easy-going, relaxed thing that the Spanish do so well…

3. You don’t need any Spanish to move to Spain but it is probably a good idea. You will need it to rent flats, get bank accounts, buy food etc. You’ll learn very fast on arrival, but having a bit before you get here won’t do any harm. Having said that, I arrived in Madrid with a Spanish vocabulary of about 5 words and phrases so completely ignore this point if you like!

4. If you plan to be an English teacher to begin with, then strongly consider starting out in Barcelona or Madrid, especially if you don’t have any kind of diploma to your name or come from outside the EU. There is far more teaching work available in these cities than elsewhere.

5. If you want to continue in your current professional field after the move, then be prepared to fight hard for a job. There are jobs in IT, engineering, telecommunications etc, but you’ll be up against a lot of Spanish people who also want to work in these fields, and they have the connections that make such a difference in Spain. But, as the great running shoe in the sky says, impossible is nothing, and I know many expats who work in their chosen field in Spain. Which leads on to:

6. I never tire of saying this. You do not need to sacrifice your career to move to Spain. You can, and have the right to, do whatever you want with your life in Spain. Unless you want to join the Spanish police force, then you might need a bit of Spanish nationality in the mix somewhere…

7. If you run an on-line business forget the above. Why aren’t you here already? Spain has great broadband (though you might have to wait two or three weeks for your new connection to get hooked up…), and your cyber-clients don’t mind where you live!

8. Unless you move somewhere very quiet, and very far from Madrid, Seville, San Sebastian or Barcelona, Spain is expensive these days. Not London or Paris expensive, but getting there. Gone are the days of stupidly cheap drinks and restaurant meals. (The rise of the euro put pay to that – maybe that’s why so many Spaniards like to keep thinking in pesetas…) Come prepared to support yourself for a while.

9. Making friends with Spanish people is tough and takes a while. Some people arrive in Spain determined not to go near anyone else from ‘back home’, but this is a mistake. Apart from being very nice and just as interesting as you (they made the move too, right?) other expats are invaluable sources of information and help during your first years in Spain.

10. As usual, it’s over to you. What would you like to add for point 10?

11. Update: if you are moving here with a family, or thinking of starting a business here on arrival, you must read this post by Brian, an American friend who moved here with his family but later made the tough decision to go back home. He has invaluable words of wisdom to offer – read it even if you don’t fall into the above family-moving or business-starting categories.

Further thoughts…

“Impossible is nothing”, “just do it”, “you make your own luck”, “you only live once”, “what’s the worst thing that can happen?” You know what I mean! If you really really think you’d like to make a bold move this year, then by whatever means possible, surprise and inspire yourself into doing it. It is very very very unlikely that you will regret it ten years down the line…

Ten years down my line from that first urge to ditch London and move to Spain, things are going quite well. It’s exactly one year since Marina, my wife, took a big gamble and left her job to work full time with me on our blogging and podcasting projects, and while we are by no means dot com rich, we manage to have a fine time and cover the mortgage. It’s funny to think that blogging and podcasting didn’t even exist when I arrived in Madrid!

If you make this the year to pursue this (or, for that matter, any other) dream, where might you be in ten years time?

Have you got any questions about moving to or living in Spain? Join our forum, where many happy expat-experts are delighted to help!

Categories
notes

Kick-Start your Spanish in 2008!

First of all, Happy New Year to everyone!

If one of your New Year’s Resolutions is to start learning, or to learn more Spanish this year, then Marina and I have written a free report to really help boost your Spanish learning in 2008.

It’s packed full of tips and pointers on how to really motivate yourself to learn more, and on how to enjoy learning Spanish to the full. Click here for full details over at NotesinSpanish.com

Happy New Year Again!

Categories
Spanish Culture and News

Late Rant on Spain Giant Casino Idea Madness

I know this news is about a 2 weeks old, but what the hell is the Aragon Local Government thinking by signing off on this giant casino complex project? (Stupid question, they’re thinking about money of course).

The basic idea is that a beautiful area of wild countryside is going to be turned into the European version of Las Vegas (as if the world needed another Las Vegas…) I suggest you go and read the full story in the Guardian, which states that the project includes “32 casinos, 70 hotels, 232 restaurants and 500 shops”. How lovely.

Once you’ve read it, come back and tell me what on earth the world is coming to when local government votes for sordid, massive, gambling emporium commercial-nightmare-cityscapes over its timeless, irreplaceable natural habitats? Spain The planet truly is in a sorry state.

Further thoughts:

Having seen the sicky promotional video, I think:

1 – Many Spaniards will love it
2 – It includes many lakes and Golf courses, in an area already described as ‘desert’. Good bye water table.

Categories
Spanish Culture and News

Newsflash! – Some Spaniards can’t take Christmas either!

Having just returned from the UK, in the mid-madness break between Christmas and New Year, I was delighted to overhear the following conversation in our local Supermarket, between two ordinary, middle-aged Spanish women:

“¿Qué tal Nochebuena?”
“Un coñazo, un coñazo que te cagas…”

Which roughly translates as:

– How was Christmas Eve? (traditional huge family dinner)
– A nightmare, a total *!#*·$-ing nightmare

They then proceeded to lament, in even more colourful language, the fact that all the New Year meals haven’t even started yet!

Which just goes to show, even the average Spaniard finds Christmas in Spain too much sometimes. Oh, and that the average Spaniard swears like a trooper, but we already knew that 🙂

Categories
notes

The 10 BEST things about the UK

OK, I promised I would eventually tell you what I most love about my country of origin. Marina and I have just spent a week in the UK, coming up with the following list (in no particular order!):

1. Help for people in wheelchairs. We were very impressed by how British Rail helped people in wheelchairs on and off trains, and by the number of ‘push here to open’ buttons set up for people in wheelchairs outside shops and offices. I think the UK does very well at helping people with disabilities, though no doubt there is still a long way to go.

Marmite2. Marmite, and bangers and mash.

3. International food in supermarkets. Herbs, spices, sauces and ingredients from a huge range of the world’s cuisine can be picked up in a decent-sized supermarket. Not the same in Spain.

4. The British countryside. The rural landscapes in Britain are as majestic, stunning and alluring as any you might find in the rest of the world, all year round. Even in winter, when leafless trees rise out of back-lit, mist-covered hillsides, Britain is astoundingly beautiful.

5. BBC Television and Radio. So what if you have to pay for it, I’m pretty sure it’s worth it.

6. The general standard of living is very high these days. Most people have comfortable houses, big TVs, decent food on the table, and long holidays.

7. The social security/benefits system seems to work. Single mothers with several kids and no work seem to get by one way or another. The NHS may be short of hospital beds but at least all healthcare is free.

8. Loo paper is softer and longer (than that found in Spain).

9. The police are approachable and seem like a decent bunch. One policeman we talked to while waiting for a crashed car to be pulled off an icy road was a thoroughly nice chap. (Spanish police often seem a touch arrogant and uninterested by comparison, but that is a vast generalisation of course).

10. What would you put for number 10?

Categories
notes

Happy Christmas from Notes from Spain! Back soon!

Hi everyone,

Marina and I want to wish you a very Happy Christmas and New Year, and to thank you enormously for reading, commenting on, listening to, and participating in Notes from Spain this year. We look forward to more in 2008!

The blog will be a bit quiet over the next week as we attend to the rigors of the Spanish Christmas schedule. In the meantime, do join in the discussions in our incredibly friendly forum.

Happy Christmas!

Ben and Marina

Categories
Spanish Culture and News

Christmas in Spain: The Spanish Christmas Calendar

Snow in the Retiro Park

Want to have a very Spanish Christmas this year? I recently complained that Spanish Christmas went on much too long, and many thought I was referring to the run-up to Christmas. No. What lasts a long time in Spain is Christmas itself, a veritable test of endurance with big events starting around December 22nd, and running all the way through to January 6th.

Do you think you could take the pace? All I can say is this: here’s hoping you get on well with your family! Let’s run through it, meal by meal, day by day:

December 22nd – El Gordo

Wake up and spend several hours glued to the TV watching small children pulling wooden lottery balls out of a big revolving cage. Discover that you haven’t won El Gordo again this year – it’s going to be split by 28 customers of a small bar in an obscure barrio of Valencia… or Soria… or Avila.

You will however make 20 Euros back on one of the tickets your mother-in-law gave you, narrowly off-setting the 300 Euros you spent on buying and swapping lottery tickets with every friend, workmate and relative you suspected might give one to you.

December 24th – Nochebuena!

The first big family meal of the season, an elaborate dinner of seafood, turrón, maybe piglet, fish, roast beef – it varies, but there’s definitely going to be lots to eat!

December 25th – Navidad

Wake up remembering the argument you had with your bother/sister/dad at last night’s family dinner, and remember… you’re seeing them all again in 3 hours time for a big family lunch! What’s on the menu? No turkey, most likely fish or lamb instead.

And no presents in Spain on the 25th, except in families that have adopted the Father Christmas (Papa Noel) tradition as an excuse for giving their children presents now (rather than waiting until Jan 6th), thus keeping them quiet for the remainder of the holidays. Obviously this is increasingly common – good news for shareholders in El Corte Ingles.

December 26th to December 30th – Run for the hills!

Nothing official programmed, but plenty of scope for at least one family meal, possibly with aunts/uncles/cousins. Update: Another reason to run for the hills (thanks for the reminder rachman) – December 28th is el Dí­a de los Inocentes, the Spanish version of April Fools day. By now you’ll be in no mood for practical jokes, believe me!

December 31st – Nochevieja

The Spanish have a very civilised approach to the biggest anti-climax of the year: get together for a family meal! Instead of fretting for weeks beforehand about which bar or disco isn’t going to be as crap as last year when the clock strikes midnight, they simply meet once again for another enduro-eating experience.

And when the clock does strike 12, it’s traditional to eat one grape per chime. Success means a year of good luck, and sounds pretty easy. But wait until you’ve already got 8 fat grapes stuffed in your mouth and 4 more to go – those chimes come pretty fast! Fortunately there is always a large bottle of Cava on hand, and the grapes are followed by a healthy round of toasts.

January 1st – Año Nuevo

This is where those who were not born into the Spanish Christmas tradition usually break down, crave psychological council, and wonder why they didn’t marry a girl from back home instead.

Waking early on January 1st, hungover, exhausted because you just had to go out last night after the family meal ended at 2 a.m., as you roll out of bed and plant your feet on the bedroom floor, a shocking realisation washes over you… you’re having lunch with the family again in half an hour. The same family you had supper with last night, for crying out loud!

Life has now started to resemble that film, Groundhog Day, where every single day brings about the same set of events: a meal with the family! Another big one too. Hope you’re hungry!

Janurary 6th – Reyes!

The marathon is all but over. Just one more get together with the relatives, usually just an afternoon tea party, and this time the joys of breaking bread with the family once more are enhanced by the giving, at last, of Christmas presents. A general sense of relief washes over the family collective, as real life, moderate eating, and a little time alone once again appear on the horizon.

Could you make it all the way through a family Christmas in Spain?!

If you want to hear more about Christmas in Spain, learn how to pronounce Nochevieja, and sharpen up your Spanish at the same time, then check out our latest Inspired Beginners Podcast, Feliz Navidad, over at NotesinSpanish.com.