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Notes from Spain Podcast Spain Travel

Siguenza – Notes from Spain Podcast 50


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Siguenza

A quiet night in Siguenza, a very quiet town at the top of which sits an even quieter Parador. Today’s podcast comes from a field just below the Parador, an ancient castle first built by the Romans, with a view across the rolling Manchegan plains. Details of the Great Madrid Escape (everyone welcome!) can be found here. And Marina wanted me to point out that this podcast is not sponsored by the Parador chain, even if we do go on about them a lot! The photo is of the Parador/castle on the top of the hill.

Addition – Here’s a short vid taken from the spot where we made the podcast:

http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docId=8869108730651007861&hl=en

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Spain Travel

NFS Flickr Group – Spain Photo of the month

This image (see large version), caught my eye as I was browsing through the excellent offerings in our Flickr group this month. It made me think of the immigrants toiling away in terrible conditions in the mass-fruit-producing plastic greenhouses in Almeria.

As the author, Multum in parvo, explains, however, “it was actually on the road to Pozo Negro, a tiny fishing hamlet on the West coast of Fuerteventura in the Canary Islands. The Island is very barren and dry with very little cultivation to be seen. The road is through typically red, rocky soil and someone has obviously tried to grow something in this site as there is a vast area of ruined greenhouses. We saw the same ones last summer but much of the structure has now been dismantled and you can see the netting lying in rolls all over the ground. I suspect the whole thing will be gone soon. This time we managed to climb over the fence and go inside for a closer look, it’s very weird with black fastenings hanging from the ruined roof and the wind whipping the netting into fantastic shapes and making the most eerie noises. If you look at my Fuerteventura tags, you’ll see some shots of the road where the greenhouses are to get an idea of the colour and harshness of the landscape as well as pictures taken last year.”

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Spain Travel

Wandering in Spain: 5 days on the Camino

A nice blog from Mark, a friend of mine who turned up in Roncevalles and had a wonderful time walking 5 days of the Camino de Santiago. One day I’ll do it, one day…

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Spain Travel

Madrid Podcast on Amateur Traveler

Ben chats to Chris at Amateur Traveler about eating, drinking, and wandering around Madrid, plus Ben’s Madrid highlights, and some of the less visited corners of Spain’s capital.

Amateur Traveler page
Direct MP3 link

Plus… Travel Guru Rick Steves has a recent podcast on Spain, featuring an interview with a Madrid-based travel expert, and a member of the tourist board explaining the role of the siesta.

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Spain Travel

Spain Travel – A walk through Granada

Granada

This street, that appeared in our recent photo quiz, is Granada’s Carrera del Darro. For me it’s the highlight of one of the most beautiful walks in Spain. In case you happen to be in Granada one day, and have an hour or two to spare, here’s the route:

Start in the Plaza Nueva, and head north west, through the Plaza Santa Ana, and up the Carrera del Darro. This cobbled street is bordered on one side by the river that gives it its name, the Darro, and on the other by the low houses that mark the border of the old Jewish quarter, the Albaicin. High above the banks of the river on the other side you catch glimpses of the towers of the Alhambra.

Carry on, wandering through the quiet Paseo del Padre Manjon (look at the wonderful house with the palms on the opposite bank!), until you reach the end of this road by the enormous fig tree, and are forced to turn left, uphill, into the Cuesta del Chapiz.

Head on up until you reach the junction with the Camino de Sacromonte. Now this is a very important point to remember. Come back at night and take a right, to find the flamenco cave bars and the extraordinary cave discos, but for now, as it’s daytime, turn left into the Cuesta de San Agustin, and, paying close attention to the map (I hope you brought a map!), wiggle your way across and up to the Plaza de San Nicolas, for breath taking views of the Alhambra Palace framed against the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada. You may want to spend a while up here…

Finally, head straight down through the flower-draped, white-washed lanes of the Albaicin. You don’t need the map for this, just choose whichever alleyway grabs your attention, and let gravity do the rest. Eventually you will come out onto the Carrera del Darro again, and you can make your way back to the Plaza Nueva.

Do let me know if you try it one day…

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Notes from Spain Podcast Spain Travel Spanish Culture and News

Chris Stewart Interview – NfS Podcast 47


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Chris Stewart

This weekend we headed deep into the Alpujarras, a mountainous region south of Granada, to interview Chris Stewart, author of Driving Over Lemons, A Parrot in the Pepper Tree, and the Almond Blossom Appreciation Society. After a rather fine lunch overlooking his valley farm, we sat down to discuss topics including:

– The history of the Moors in Spain and the Alpujarras
– The Moorish influence on his lifestyle and farming techniques, including Moorish irrigation techniques
– Olive trees and olive farming around Jaen
– The similarities between the Alpujarra and Morocco
– The writing process
– Moroccan immigration in Spain and El Ejido (a town in Andalusia where many Moroccan immigrants end up working in intensive greenhouse farming).
– The African immigration problem facing Spain now, and the treatment of Moroccan immigrants in Andalusia
– … and finally, a great recipe for Gazpacho!

Hope you enjoy it! Discussion and questions are welcome in the forum.

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Spain Travel

NFS Flickr Group Spain Photo of the month

Sanlucar races

As usual it has been really difficult to pick a winner from this month’s submissions to the NFS Flickr Group, but this photo by Manuel Garcia is a work of art. I highly recommend you check out his photos on Flickr, or his photoblog.

The photo was taken during the annual horse races on Sanlúcar de Barrameda beach. These races take place over two periods of three days, the first usually in July, and the second in August, though the actual date itself depends on the tides – low tide is essential so that there is enough room for all the horses. Exact dates should be announced in plenty of time on the town website.

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Notes from Spain Podcast Spain Travel

Notes from Spain Podcast 46 – Vallecas


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Vallecas Market

Not many people put a trip to Vallecas at the top of their birthday list, but it really appealed to me! Another wonderful market lies at the centre of a very traditional Barrio Madrileño. More photos are up on Flickr.

Comment on this episode in the Notes from Spain forum.

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Spain Travel

Tomatina tomato mahem!

Tomatina

Is this the craziest fiesta in Spain? Anywhere in the world for that matter? This morning, between the hours of 11 a.m. and midday, 40,000 ‘guerrillas’ pelted each other with 110 tonnes of tomatoes in the Valencian town of Buñol! Full marks to Graham McLellan, author of the above photo, for risking his camera in that environment… it doesn’t seem the ideal place to be wandering around with anything electronic! Well, same time, same place next year if you’re fond of soft, red, over-ripe fruit!

Update: A messy video of the after-effects!

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Spain Travel Top 5

Top 5 Spain tourist scams

Nothing like getting a top expert to forewarn us about the latest dangers to unwary tourists on the sunny streets of Spain. So, without further ado, our Top 5 series continues with an appearance by a famous Barcelona detective. Ladies and gentlemen, in his own unique voice, I give you Larry Kovaks, P.I.:

Kovaks, P.I.“These rainy days. Strange for August. But that’s the way mother nature intended it for this old mudball and you better goddamn well accept it. Means the guiri crime wave is ebbing, so there isn’t much work for me. Good thing they asked me to do this top 5 thing.

But the idea of a top 5 scam report irks me. What exactly does top 5 mean? The top 5 most successful scams? The top 5 best scams? The top 5 five most ingenious scams?

The virulent underbelly of guiri scamming is truly a menace to this society. I couldn’t, in all due consideration to the respectable author of this blog, say that there is a top 5 of any scam. A scammer, a gypmeister, a short conner, what have you, has one m.o. And that is to pull the deed and not get caught. Therefore, by any means necessary and he or she is happy as, well, a sauced-up guiri in Lloret.

Considering the nature of my work, and the highly compromising situation I would put myself in if I were to reveal my perceptive insights into crimes I am going to solve, I will limit this list to the 5 most nefarious and dastardly scams I have confronted yet. Gypmeisters should not take this as sloth on my part. I am hard at work on the next cases.

1. The Drop Cigarette Con
My first face-off with vice in this dissolute burg started with this one. I was subjected to perhaps the most common form of gypmeisting. In Barcelona, at least. What these fellows do is block you in a confined space (usually an escalator, or a narrow staircase). They do this by dropping a cigarette or other meaningless personal item, and impeding your exit while they "try” to retrieve it. An accomplice of theirs sneaks up behind you and bumps you. As they bump you, they snake their gypmeisting fingers into your pockets and steal your wallet. They got me one time …

2. The Bouncing Cartoon Con
Some of the dirtiest rat bxxxxxxs to have scurried across these piss-laden streets. What they do is sell these cute little bouncing cartoon cutouts. Often they are Simpson’s characters, but they just as well may be Mickey or even Minnie Mouse. A goddamn shame. What they do is put seductive pop music on and "make” the cartoon cutouts dance. Foolish associates have ventured the notion that the bouncing cartoons are actually powered by magnet fields. No such thing. It’s much more sinister than that. There’s a little motor behind that stolen boombox. And much more …

3. The Soccer Trick Con
With world cup fever on the wane, this might not be a "top 5” scam. But it is definitely a scam. And a dirty one at that. What these fellows do is throw on some knock-off Barí§a gear and dribble a soccer ball around. Only in the most touristy spots. I encountered them on the Ramblas a few weeks ago. They dribble up to you, do a fancy trick, and … well, even vigilant eyes like mine can’t spot gypmeisters like these. They beguile you with their "elastico” moves. And before you know it, your vacay plans go blooey.

4. Crap On Clothes Con
This is a fairly old con. There are several variants, but one of the most common goes like this: The gypmeister hides behinds trees or bushes or what have you and he or she squirts a foreign substance onto your clothes. They say something is on your clothes and offer to clean it off. BEWARE! This moment is key. What they are about to do is relieve you of your hard-earned euros.

5. American Tourist Con
As shocking as it might sound, there are gypmeisters who, con mucho morro, don tourist disguises in order to rip off tourists. I encountered these fellows on the Ramblas, of course. The Ramblas is a veritable paradise for gypmeisters of all races, creeds, and filthy intentions. They are in cahoots with other scammers and gather around them in order to attract real tourists. Real tourists are innocently lead into their tempting world of gypmeisting (in my case it was the classic "hide the pea con”).

In this world you can’t judge by appearances. Just remember that.

I would like to thank Ben for the opportunity of sharing this invaluable knowledge with potential tourists of Spain. Please, watch out. If you ever see any suspicious behavior, don’t hesitate to contact me: kovakspi@gmail.com.

Goddamn palookas. Poltroons. ‘Bout time someone took them to the cleaners.”