Author: Ben

Before our recent trip to South East Asia we went to the Department of Transport (the dreaded Trafico), to pick up our international driving license. The guy behind the desk asked us where we were going. I told him we were heading to Thailand. “Tailandia…”, he replied, “…con lo bonito que es Toledo.” And with that pronouncement, that with beautiful Toledo on our doorstep why on earth would we go to Thailand, he gave us our documents and wandered off shaking his head.

Well, ten years ago I would have said that this was a typical Spanish reaction, that the Spaniards had no interest in going on holiday beyond Spain. Judging by our jumbo full of Spaniards flying back to Madrid from Bangkok, who had caught connecting flights in from all over Asia and Australasia, things have changed. Still, during various strange moments on our holiday (rabies shots for cat attacks, anti-biotics for infected mosquito bites, illness-aborted motorbike trips, rainy beaches…), that phrase kept creeping back into conversation… “Con lo bonito que es Toledo…”

Photos from the trip, for interested parties.

ETA says their ceasefire with Spain and the Spanish government will end at 00.00 hours tomorrow, Wednesday, when they shall return to a defense of their principles with arms. Zapatero’s government is blamed.

Oh well, balls to optimism then. When ETA announced their ceasefire in March last year I, for one, was optimistic. After all, don’t we live in an age where, in politically advanced democracies, internal terrorism just doesn’t seem like a viable option any more? Changing attitudes since 9/11 and all that… How sorry I was then, when that ceasefire was originally announced, to see so many Spaniards on the TV declaring that this was just another smokescreen, that it was a meaningless gesture that wouldn’t last a year. Yet how right the pessimists, or perhaps they are realists, were. Where oh where does the process go from here?

Links:
December’s Barajas airport bombing obviously didn’t bode well.
BBC: Eta to end ceasefire with Spain
20minutos.com: ETA anuncia en un comunicado que da por finalizado el alto el fuego

In the previous post on racism in Spain, a couple of sensible comments seemed to suggest that while it is indeed a problem, none of us have the right to be too judgemental: “I think none of us is in a position to cast the first stone,” said Theresa. I couldn’t agree more.

When I arrived in Spain 9 years ago there was hardly a coloured person to be seen in Madrid. This was quite a shock coming from Brixton, an area of London where being white made you feel something of a minority. And unlike in the UK, here in Madrid there were no black or asian bus drivers, doctors, or politicians. None. Around 6 years ago a sizable Bengali community moved into the barrio of Lavapies, and around the same time mass immigration across the Straits of Gibraltar led to a huge increase in the number of Africans appearing on the streets of the captial – most selling pirated cds and dvds from blankets on the pavement, ready to run at a moment’s notice should the police turn up. But there are still no black people in what you might term ‘normal jobs’ – oh, except for one civil servant who works in our local treasury office, possibly the only non-Spanish civil servant in the city?

The point is that Spain is where the UK was in the 50’s: huge immigration in recent years from Africa and Asia (and of course Eastern European countries such as Romania) means there is a rapidly changing racial demographic, and the new arrivals are a long long way from equal opportunities and full integration. Yet despite feelings of uneasiness and occasional outpourings of racial hatred amongst more ignorant sectors of the population, things could be worse. Didn’t we see endless cases of racial rioting, random beatings, and the destruction of property and businesses belonging to immigrants in the UK in much of the latter half of the 20th Century? I’m seeing very little of that in Spain – or perhaps it just isn’t reported?

I don’t know enough about the complexities of the racial problems in the States to speak for those from the US, but the UK has had over 50 years to become the plural society of equal opportunities it purports to be today, giving some Brits the idea that they speak about racism in Spain from this lofty position of living in a society of racial harmony and tolerance. But think back. Think how hard it was to make the adjustments to today’s pluralistic Britain, how long it took, and consider how Spain is now doing fairly well at going through the same process. As Theresa implied, we have to ask ourselves if any of us are in a position to be too judgmental of attitudes in Spain.

It’s early days, and perhaps the real problems are yet to come, and while I want to make it clear that I detest racism in any form whatsoever, given the time line of recent demographic changes here in Spain, and given what we have seen in other countries that have undergone similar changes in the past, I think things could be a lot worse.

Yesterday was regional elections day here in Spain. The general opinion is that it was a bit of a draw between the big guys, the PP and the ruling PSOE. As I have far more fun analyzing wild Spanish Fiestas and Tapas, I thought I should leave it up to other eminent Spain bloggers to let you know exactly what went down.

Matthew at The Big Chorizo summarises reactions from the press, and concludes that:

“nobody really won; it was about as close to a draw as you can get in politics”

Nicholas Mead suggests that Zapatero’s PSOE may not have done themselves any favours in recent years:

“… many have probably been moved by moral indignation at Prime Minister Jose Zapatero’s initiatives to legalise gay marriage, grant more autonomy to the various regions and re-compensate those that were wronged during the civil war.”

Amy makes an interesting point at Show me… Spain:

One thing that did impress me was that the voter turnout was around 64%! And that was down 4% from the last elections. I think the 2004 presidential elections in the US saw about 40% turnout. Pretty shameful in comparison. A lot of Spanish people complain that the parties are all the same and nothing ever changes. The same complaints that you hear in the US. But at least the Spanish people still get out and vote.

Colin Davies gives us a run through of the actual voting process (5 people to check your identity and receive your voting slip!)

My voting experience yesterday was like the vast majority of personal interactions in Spain – very enjoyable, involving much smiling and even a bit of a chat [….] In short, people and paper intensive but quick and pleasant.

Thanks guys!

Due to my usual political apathy I didn’t vote – I never did the paperwork, returned the relevant letter, or whatever it was I was supposed to do. I regret this now, and see that I should be taking a greater interest in the inner workings of the place I call home. I shall make sure I exercise my right help choose who’s in charge of Madrid next time round.