It may be impossible to get a room in Valencia in the middle of March, but a couple of new websites have just made life much easier in the nation’s two capitals. 30Madrid and Barcelona30 will find you a decent, central room in either of the cities for under 30 Euros per night/per person. It really seems to work – worth bookmarking for the NFS Great Madrid Escape!
Category: Spain Travel

Today I spent 40 minutes on the telephone trying to find a hotel room in Valencia for the night of the 18th of March. This, the Nit de Foc, is the penultimate night, and one of the highlights, of the Las Fallas fiesta, involving an hour-long fireworks display of previously unknown scale and inventiveness, followed by drinking and dancing til dawn in the city’s beautiful squares. Previous Nit de Focs rate amongst my top nights out in Spain, ever. Unfortunately plenty of other people who don’t live in Valencia evidently feel the same way! When I asked one hostel owner if he had rooms for March 18th, he said, “for which year?”
So, if you are thinking of heading to one of the big Fiestas this year, be it Las Fallas, Carnival in Cadiz, Easter in Seville, or San Fermines in Pamplona, book your accommodation now, for this year or next, or end up sleeping on the street. I usually start by checking the big hotel chains on the web, then going through every number in various guide books. My troubles paid off at last today, when I finally found one room going in a business hotel 30 minutes walk from Valencia city center – as close as we’ll get this year!
Photo: Crazy Valencians playing with fire again! For more on fiestas, and to help me find the year’s best, check out this forum thread.
Avoiding other tourists in Spain
Avoiding other tourists when you are in Spain is a great way to improve your Spanish, and to get away from all the other guiris running all over the other country. Fortunately for those who want to avoid their fellow countrymen when on holiday, most end up in Barcelona, Madrid, Granada and Seville. But what if you really want to get off the beaten track this year, and find yourself alone in a sea of Spanish? Here are a few of our favourite getaways:
Teruel: So off the beaten track that the locals have even started a website declaring ‘Teruel Exists!’ Great for Mudejar architecture and wonderful ham.
Vigo: Downtrodden backstreets and fresh oysters. Workaday Galicia with all the gastronomic trimmings.
Gijon: Stormy weather, a wonderful Chillida sculpture and the best fabada on the planet. Head onwards from here for the beaches around Llanes.
Extremadura: Trujillo and Caceres are small towns with a rich Roman and conquistador past. Most of the province of Extremadura is pretty much off the tourist trail, and there are some wonderful drives through rolling countryside. Take any B-road from Salamanca to Trujillo, via, Guijuelo, and you’ll see what I mean.
Aragon: An empty, majestic province rolling up to the Pyrenees. Try Jaca if you need a town to stay in, but get out into the villages if you can. The best plan is to go without one.
Carmona: A small town just to the north of Seville. Lovely Parador. Try the jamon on toast tapas in the museum bar. A lovely, sleepy Andaluz town.
I could go on and on, but now it’s over to you. Where do you go to escape tourism in Spain? Comments are welcome below or in this forum post.
Flickr Pic of the month – December

My favourite image from the Notes from Spain flickr pool this month ties in with one of my desires for the year ahead: to get out and see a lot of the Spain I had no idea was still out there. I knew that Merida was once a Roman settlement, for example, but I had no idea it still contained ruins as interesting as those in the photo above.
The image, of the “Acueducto Romano de los Milagros” (large version here), was taken on Christmas Day by ClintMalpaso.

This photo, which I found in the NFS Flickr Group, completely sums up the joys of a Spanish summer fiesta. I thought it was just what’s needed on a cold winter’s day (in Madrid it’s pretty cold anyway!) The photo was taken by pikaluk, whose partner David explains here what is going on:
“We were in Spain in 2002 and just happened across the festival in Bilbao. It centred around the town hall and I think there was some tradition of using the large mannequins (are they called ‘geants’?) to rush the first-floor, the winning team being the first to get their giant inside, up the stairs and out onto the balcony overlooking the square. Everyone was spraying fizzy wine of some sort (doubt it was champagne) over each other and hurling flour. It was exceedingly good-natured – bit of a surprise for me, never having been to Spain before, expecting any large near-riot to turn nasty and instead just finding it fun. It was just before Batasuna was proscribed – or just after -and the Batasuna HQ was on the square, and there was a vaguely political tinge to the affair.”

Ben and Marina visit a stunning area of natural parkland full of waterfalls, just off the road from Madrid to Barcelona (Road map here).
More photos over at Flickr
A wander through the back streets of Barcelona. Who needs Gaudi?
So much of the city was left unpodcasted, and I am really keen to return. The city cast a spell on me this time, and I think it was because we didn’t once think about doing anything really touristy (no Sagrada Familia for example). Being a good tourist can be so exhausting – Florence nearly killed me when I tried! – but just wandering around the back streets of any unfamiliar city is one of the greatest joys on earth.
To see all the fantastic Barcelona recommendations sent in by you lot, click here.

You really have to see the full size version of this image to do it justice. Richardksa took it on a dull, overcast day, from the 8th floor of an office building on Gran Via, in the centre of Madrid. Looking out towards Moncloa, you see the peaceful city roofs, a privileged site that’s hard to come across as you move about in the hustle and bustle below.
Thanks to all of you that submitted pictures to the NFS Flickr Group this month, please keep them coming! The standard was very high as usual, and it was very hard to pick a favourite!
Marina and I are off to the other capital of Spain (no offence to the Catalan nationalists) soon, what shouldn’t we miss? (We’ve done most of the Gaudi stuff in the past). What we really need is a list like the one below 😉
Update: Wow, I never knew Barcelona was so popular, just check out all the great recommendations in the comments below. No guidebook is as good as this! Thanks to all and keep them coming!
After receiving another e-mail asking for recommendations on things to do in Madrid for the weekend, I thought I should post the answer here on the blog, then the world and their Google will be able to benefit from it from now onwards as well. Before we get to the list, do you live in or have great knowledge of a city/place/area in Spain? Would you like to help make NFS really useful by sending in a list of “Recommendations for 10 (or less) things to do in… (your place in Spain)”. Just (roughly) follow the format below and e-mail me the text, or a link to a post on your blog. I’ll post your list, and link to you on the web of course, and, well, the world and Google etc will be a better place!
Recommendations for 10 things to do in Madrid – More details and maps in your guide book! (Time Out Madrid is great.)
1. The No-Brainer
Visit at least one of the big three art museums, the Prado, the Reina Sofia and the Thyssen. If in doubt pick the Reina Sofia and see Guernica.
2. Tapas Grazing
Start on Cava Baja, stopping at will on this bar-packed street, then head into the depths of La Latina for more.
3. Something Different
Take a trip on the Teleferico, out into the depths of the Casa de Campo.
4. A Walk
Go to Plaza de la Villa and take one of the small alleys on the left hand side or at the back of the square. Wander aimlessly, follow your nose, change course at will, check out the churches – it’s the best way to see Madrid de las Austrias, the ancient city centre.
5. Everyone misses
Malasaña – a really charming Barrio centered around Plaza Dos de Mayo. Check out the lovely tiled shop fronts, ignore the graffiti, and have a drink at Manuela Cafe, on Calle San Vicente Ferrer 29.
6. A Park
The Retiro: for people-watching, romance, rowing, and relative peace and quiet.
7. A Shop
Antigua Casa Talavera, an incredible ceramics shop on Calle Isabel la Católica, 2
8. A trip out of the city
El Escorial or Toledo. It’s a toss up as to which is best. If you really can’t decide, try Chinchón instead.
9. A reasonable restaurant
Taberna Miranda, at Plaza del Conde Miranda, 4, is local, cheap, has amazing food, and is generally very Spanish. Our favourite in Madrid. Arrive 9ish at weekends if you don’t have a reservation. Otherwise do snacks at the lively bar.
10. Hidden Culture
El Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, at Plaza de las Descalzas Reales, 3. A closed order of nuns still live in the private quarters of this monastery. Amazing treasures lie within.
10+1. Last thing at night
Ward off a hangover with Chocolate con Churros at Chocolatería San Ginés, on Pasadizo de San Ginés, 11. Things lived up after 3 a.m., when locals gather to dip thick battery churros sticks into gloopy hot chocolate.
Add more Madrid recommendations in the comments below, and do e-mail me a similar list for your favourite corner of Spain!