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Spain Travel Spanish Food and Drink

Why I love my mother-in-law and buying ham in Spain

Jamon

What greater expression of affection can there be than a present of a whacking great leg of ham? I’m obviously in the mother-in-law’s good books these days! This is actually a paletilla de jamon iberico, the front leg of an acorn fed Iberian boar, that spent some time wondering around the woods and fields of Guijuelo, near Salamanca, before ending up in our kitchen. The rear leg, or jamon, is larger, and lasts too long for our tastes – the two months of constant ham eating it will take to get through our paletilla is plenty for us!

Buying a ham in Spain: there are three places you are almost guaranteed to get a good leg of ham in Spain. The first is in the small town of Guijuelo (map), just south of Salamanca, where the main street has one shop after another full of exquisite hams, chorizos, lomos – everything any self-respecting carnivore could want from a pig! Combine your ham buying mission with a drive from Salamanca down to Extremadura, taking in the wild Sierra de la Peña Francesa on the way if you can.

The second name on the tip of every hamophiles tounge is Jabugo (map), a tiny town in the Sierra de Aracena, about 100 kilometres north of Huelva. Once again the quiet Andaluz town is dominated by jamon-sellers, including the famous 5J brand. Here, however, the ham is something of a footnote to the stunning scenery of the surrounding Sierra. Cork forests, wild flowers, fields of grazing fighting bulls – the highlight is the white hilltop town of Almonaster La Real (map), with its 10th Century Moorish mosque. N.B. the ham from Jabugo has a slightly stronger taste than that from Guijuelo.

Perhaps the best place to pick up a ham in big towns like Madrid and Barcelona is El Corte Ingles superstore. There’s usually a food section in the basement of the bigger branches, where they will guarentee you a decent-tasting leg of ham and even peel the first layers of tough skin away for you (I am not usually a fan of El Corte Ingles, but apparently they will replace hams that are too salty/not great quality). If you are travelling by air later, ask about vacuum packing before you make a purchase, and remember that some countries won’t let you bring ham through customs. Pick up a jamonero from the kitchen department while you are there, it’s the big wooden vice used to hold the ham in place while cutting.

A word on price: the paletilla in the photo above cost around 100 euros (weighing in at 5 kilos) from El Corte Ingles, it should be a little cheaper at source. The jamon (back leg) is more expensive per kilo, as there is a greater proportion of meat to bone in the overall weight. Finally, jamon de bellota (only fed on acorns in the final months before slaughter) is more expensive, and far nicer, than jamon de recebo (where the pigs also eat commercial feed in the final months).

For more on ham in Spanish see como cortar un jamon and the Spanish wikipedia. Any more questions on ham?

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Cuisine from Spain Podcast Spanish Food and Drink

Albondigas – Cuisine from Spain podcast 19


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Albondigas - Spanish Meatballs

Ingredients

600 grammes (1 1/4 pounds) of Minced beef
1 egg
4 garlic cloves
2 sprigs parsley finely chopped
1 cup of flour
1 onion chopped up in large chunks
2 bay leaves
1 tsp of salt
Olive oil
1/2 glass of wine

Preparation

To prepare the mixture we beat the egg in a big bowl, then add the meat, 2 crushed garlic cloves, the salt and the parsley, mixing with a fork until everything is coated with the egg.

Use a spoon to separate enough mixture to form a golf-ball-sized meatball and shape it lightly with your hands. Be careful not to press too hard because the sauce won’t soak in later, which might leave them very dry. Continue forming balls until the mixture is finished, then place the flour on a plate and coat each of the balls by rolling them around the plate.

To fry the meatballs use a small, deep frying pan filled with olive oil to a depth of around 2 cm / nearly an inch. When the oil is hot add 4 or 5 balls and brown them lightly for 1 or 2 minutes, making sure that you turn them over half way through. Repeat the process until all of the meatballs have been fried.

To prepare the sauce use a large frying pan where you will be able to place all of the meatballs in one layer. Filter the olive oil used for frying the meatballs earlier and pour it into the large frying pan, then add the onion and cook slowly for about 10 minutes. Next add two garlic cloves with the skin still on, and two bay leaves. Add a spoonful of flour (you can use what’s left on the plate where you coated the meatballs) and stir it in with a wooden spoon for 15 seconds, coating the flour with the oil (note that if you fry it for much longer the flour might burn). Then quickly add the wine and about 1/2 a litre of water (1 US Pint). Finally, add the meat balls, and more water – until they are around two thirds covered – and cook slowly for about 30 minutes, stirring every now and again so they don’t stick to the bottom. Note that you can add more water half way through if needed.

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Cuisine from Spain Podcast Spanish Food and Drink

Pollo en Pepitoria – Cuisine from Spain Podcast 18


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This wonderful Castillian chicken dish seemed to go down quite well in the Catalan kitchen!

Ingredients:

2 Kg (4.4 Pounds) of Chicken (Drum sticks and thighs)
1 Chopped onion
3 Garlic cloves chopped roughly
3 Boiled eggs
2 Bouquet Garnis (or 2 bay leafs)
White wine (1 ½ glasses)
Water (1 ½ glasses)
White Flour (Enough to cover a plate)
Olive oil
Salt

Preparation:

Start by sprinkling salt over each piece of chicken and coating them in flour. Cover the bottom of a cast-iron frying pan with olive oil and let it heat up. When the oil starts to smoke, fry the pieces of chicken lightly in two lots for about 5 minutes each, then take them out and leave them on one side on a plate.

Using the same oil (or if there is too much oil get rid of about 1/3) cook the onion and garlic over a low heat with the bouquet garni for about 15 minutes. Next add the wine and water and leave to boil for 10 minutes, allowing the flavours to come out. Then add the chicken, check it is completely covered by the liquid (if not, add some more water), and cook everything very slowly for 30 minutes. Finally, chop the egg whites and crumble the egg yolks before adding them to the stew, and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Serve with boiled potatoes and a green vegetables.


Above: Bouquet Garni from Terrasa market

Categories
Spanish Food and Drink

Anyone for a Scorpion Lolly?

I know the Spanish are supposed to have invented the lolly pop, but isn’t this going too far? They’ll sell anything in Barcelona’s Boqueria Market!

scorpion lollies

More random Boqueria photos here.

Categories
Spanish Food and Drink

A drunken invocation

For ten points, who knows when this Galician verse is chanted, and what it’s called?

Mouchos, coruxas, sapos e bruxas.
Demos, trasnos e dianhos, espritos das nevoadas veigas.
Corvos, pintigas e meigas, feitizos das mencinheiras.
Pobres canhotas furadas, fogar dos vermes e alimanhas.
Lume das Santas Companhas, mal de ollo, negros meigallos, cheiro dos mortos, tronos e raios.
Oubeo do can, pregon da morte, foucinho do satiro e pe do coello.
Pecadora lingua da mala muller casada cun home vello.
Averno de Satan e Belcebu, lume dos cadavres ardentes, corpos mutilados dos indecentes, peidos dos infernales cus, muxido da mar embravescida.
Barriga inutil da muller solteira, falar dos gatos que andan a xaneira, guedella porra da cabra mal parida.
Con este fol levantarei as chamas deste lume que asemella ao do inferno, e fuxiran as bruxas acabalo das sas escobas, indose bañar na praia das areas gordas.
¡Oide, oide! os ruxidos que dan as que non poden deixar de queimarse no agoardente, quedando asi purificadas.
E cando este brebaxe baixe polas nosas gorxas, quedaremos libres dos males da nosa ialma e de todo embruxamento.
Forzas do ar, terra, mar e lume, a vos fago esta chamada: si e verdade que tendes mais poder que a humana xente, eiqui e agora, facede cos espritos dos amigos que estan fora, participen con nos desta queimada.

If you have absolutely no idea, or feel like cheating, Sal DeTraglia knows the answer 😉

Damn that’s a fine (and veeeery dangerous) drink! Dangerous because on the one hand you are exposed to the possibility of third degree burns, and secondly because it is one of the strongest alcoholic concoctions known to man. I wonder how we can fit one of these into the Great Madrid Escape?

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Cuisine from Spain Podcast Spanish Food and Drink

Marmitako – Cuisine from Spain Podcast 17


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Marmitako

This warming Basque fish stew receives its name from the saucepan that it is cooked in, a Marmita.

Ingredients: (for 4 people)

600g (1.3 Pounds) of fresh Tuna (or Bonito if you are in Spain)
1Kg (2.2 Pounds) of Potatoes
2 Onions
2 Tomatoes
3 Garlic cloves
2 Bay leaves
4 tbsp of Olive oil
1 tsp of Sweet paprika
1 Cayenne pepper
1 liter (2 Pints) of water
2 Sprigs of parsley

Preparation:

Start by peeling the potatoes and slicing them roughly. Then peel and thinly slice both the onion and the garlic. Pour the oil into a saucepan and let it warm on the hob until it starts to smoke. Then add the potatoes, the onion and the garlic and let these cook for about 5 minutes, turning occasionaly.

Next add the bay leaves, the cayenne pepper, and finally a tsp of sweet paprika. Be careful at this point, you need to get the paprika coated in the oil without burning it – to do this successfully stir non-stop for between 20 to 30 seconds then immediately add the water, until the potato mixture is covered. Remove the cayenne pepper, and let the stew boil for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the tomatoes and the fish. To easily peel the tomatoes, scald them (cover for half a minute with boiling water) and then remove the skin. Chop the tomatoes roughly and purée them using a fork. Next, cut the fish into small cubes, carefully removing any remaining bones.

When the 20 minutes are up (this time really depends on the type of potatoes) add the tomato purée and leave the dish simmering on the hob for a further 7 minutes. Then add the tuna, and cook it for just 5 to 7 minutes more – you really have to be careful not to overcook the fish or it won’t be tender. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and serve in bowls.

Categories
Spanish Food and Drink

Niscalos – Autumn Mushrooms

Niscalos

These are what the Spanish are stooping to pick off hillsides in these autumnal days, the wonderful, bright orange mushrooms, niscalos, that we mentioned in the last Cuisine from Spain podcast. Personally if I saw these in a field I would think twice about eating one, but apparently they are very nice – so they should be at 9 euros a kilo!

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Cuisine from Spain Podcast Spanish Food and Drink

Cuisine from Spain Podcast 16 – Setas


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setas

This seasonal mushroom dish, made here using wild setas, can actually be adapted to make a great tapa all year round.

Ingredients:

4 cloves of garlic
3 Tbs olive oil
Half a kilo/1 pound wild mushrooms (setas)
Half a glass of white wine
3 sticks of parsley
Salt (a generous pinch!)
Pepper (optional)

Preparation:

Start by washing the mushrooms thoroughly, then place them in a sieve and let them dry for a while – if you need to cook them immediately, dry them a bit with a tea-towel. With the type of mushrooms I used, you can simply tear them into strips but if you use button mushrooms you need to slice them with a knife.

Put all the oil in a frying pan and wait till it starts to smoke. Add the garlic, which has been previously peeled and sliced roughly, and stir with a wooden spoon. When the garlic starts to brown add the mushrooms and stir them every now and again for 5 minutes. At this point add the wine and turn the heat down to medium. After another 5 to 10 minutes add the parsley and serve immediately.

Tips

If you want to try adding even more flavour to this dish, you can fry some bacon or ham (serrano or parma) in the oil with the garlic (remember that the garlic will need less time than either of these ingredients.)

If you can’t find wild mushrooms that you thing will be suitable, standard or button mushrooms will do just fine.

Discuss this recipe in the forum

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Cuisine from Spain Podcast Spanish Food and Drink

Cuisine from Spain Podcast 15 – Cordero Asado and Patatas a lo Pobre


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Roast lamb and a lo pobre potatoes … You don’t get more Castillian than this! Although you can find cordero asado cooked in a similar way throughout Spain, the best is found around Segovia, Valladolid, and other parts of the Castilla-Leon area, where you still see shepherds wandering through the hills with their flocks. Another reason not to miss this dish in these areas is that it is usually cooked in a wood-fired oven (horno de leña), bringing even more flavour to the dish.

Cordero Asado

Cordero Asado

Ingredients

2 Kg (4 pounds) of good organic lamb (we used leg here)
6 to 8 garlic cloves
3 tsp of thyme
6 bay leaves
2 tsp salt
2 tbsp olive oil

Preparation

The secret of the success of this recipe is to get very good quality meat, organic if possible, and then cook it very slowly in the oven.

Preheat the oven for 30 minutes at 200ºC/390ºF. When the oven is ready, make three or frour cuts in the meat (look at the picture above) and insert an unpeeled garlic clove and a bay leaf into each of them. Then rub the lamb with the rock salt, thyme and the olive oil before sticking it in the oven. After 5 minutes pour a glass of water over the meat. Keep it at this temperature for 5 more minutes and then turn the oven down to a slower setting, about 160ºC/320ºF. Leave it at this temperature for at least 1h and 30 minutes. After this time check with a fork or a knife that the meat is cooked in the middle – if it still seems a little red, leave it for a while longer.

Tip 1

Note that I’ve used leg this time but it would be fine to use shoulder.

Tip 2

If you are Spain it is fine to buy leg or shoulder of either Lechal or Recental lamb, as explained in the podcast. If you ask the butcher to prepare it for roasting he will make two or three cuts down to the middle of the bone, so the meat cooks better in the middle. Note that if the meat has no cuts, or the piece is heavier, cooking times will be longer.

Patatas a lo Pobre

Patatas a lo Pobre

Ingredients

5 Medium Potatos
3 Onions
2 Green peppers
8 garlic cloves
2 tsp salt
15 tbsp olive oil
1 dessert spoon of vinager

Preparation

Start by peeling the potatos and the onions, slice them thinly width-wise and place them into a bowl. Roughly chop up the green peppers, carefully removing all the seeds, and place them in the bowl together with the potatoes and the onion. Add the salt slowly while you gently mix the potato and these other ingredients with your hands.

Now select a large, and preferably deep, frying pan. Note that a wok will do the task very well. If you don’t have a large frying pan you might need to cook this dish using two frying pans. Pour all the oil into the frying pan and allow it to get hot. When it starts to smoke add the potatoes, onions, peppers and the bay leaves. During the whole cooking process you need to stir the mixture with a wooden spoon regularly (every minute) so it does not stick to the bottom. Note that some of the potatoes will break into smaller pieces – this really does not matter as this dish is more about taste. Keep cooking at a high setting for about 10 minutes, and then turn the hob to a medium setting and add the garlic, which has been previously peeled and thinly sliced.

After 20 more minutes try one potato to check if it is cooked. If so, turn off the hob and remove the excess oil using a colander. Put the mixture back into the frying pan and add the vinager while stiring the mixture for a few seconds.

Tip 1

Serve this as a side dish for any roast meat

Tip 2

This recipe requires large quantities of oil. If olive oil is difficult or expensive to get in your area you can easyly substitute it for sunflower oil, or any vegetable oil available in your area.

Discuss this recipe in our forum.

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Cuisine from Spain Podcast Spanish Food and Drink

Cuisine from Spain Podcast 14 – Pinchos Morunos


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Pincho Morunos

Marina takes on the local butcher as she tries to out-do his Pincho Moruno kebabs!

Ingredients

1 Kg or 2.2 Pounds of pork meat
2 garlic cloves
2 tsp of sweet paprika
1 tsp of hot paprika
1 tsp of ground pepper
2 tsp of thyme
3 bay leafs
4 tbsp of olive oil

Preparation

Start by chopping up the meat into 1.5 cm or 1/2 inch cubes. Then add the crushed garlic cloves and add all the spices to a bowl and mix them with a spoon before adding the olive oil and mixing a little bit more. Add the meat to the mixture and mix until all the pieces are covered with the spice mixture. Leave in the fridge to marinade for at least 12 hours (and up to 2 days) before cooking. Before barbecuing the meat, make the kebabs by putting four or five cubes of meat onto metal kebab sticks.

Tips

1. If you want even more Moorish flavour, add a tsp of cumin seeds or powder.
2. If it’s no longer barbecue season in your part of the world, you can always cook these under the oven grill (broiler).

Discuss this episode in the forum