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Rioja Wine – What’s all the fuss about?

Photo © Ryan Opaz

A few questions popped into my head recently about Rioja wines, about their predominance in the Spanish market amongst other things. Who better to clear up my doubts, I thought, than my good friend Ryan, at Catavino.net. Read on, and do check out his great site on Spanish wines.

Q: Why have a majority of people outside Spain only ever heard of La Rioja wines?

A: Marketing, that’s it really, and money. Rioja has invested early and well. Today the name Rioja stands apart from Spanish wine. In fact a recent survey by the Wine Academy of Spain found that 2 out of 10 wine drinkers recognized Tempranillo (primary grape used in Rioja) as a variety and 68% of wine drinkers thought Rioja was in Italy.

Q: Do they actually make some of the best wines in Spain?

A: Yes, and like any region in Spain they also make some of the worst. Wine is in most cases subjective, and therefore if you don’t like wine from Rioja don’t drink it, and if you do like it, well then do drink it. I would say that 80% or more of the Rioja on my supermarket shelf here in Terrassa, Cataluña, is pure rubbish. But the name sells so people buy it. Sad really.

Q: What Rioja wines should people look out for in Spain or abroad?

A: Really I think that most Rioja wines become interesting at the 10 euro price point. Sure there are cheaper ones worth considering, but in the end you get to 10 euros and most times you get a wine worth the money. Names I have always had luck with include: Muga, LAN, Lopez de Heredia, and RODA, none of which should surprise anyone, though I would look to new names such as Bodegas Tobia, a winery that is really tryinig to do new things, while at the same time respecting traditon.

Q: Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva – Does it really matter?

A: Yes and no. The best value you can get is from a Crianza. Usually they are not overpriced and are still full of fruit and vigor. Whereas Reservas and Gran Reservas can be over-priced and unless you know where to reach you can find yourself with a glass of tired grape juice.

Q: I want to do a bit of wine tourism in La Rioja, where should I head for?

A: Head to www.LaRiojaTurismo.com and check out what they have to offer. Rioja right now is working hard to show itself as a complete package. You can ride horses, take a balloon ride, see dinosaur tracks, visit ancient cities, and eat some amazing foods, all this and you’ll never be far from a great glass of wine.

Q: Any final La Rioja thoughts?

A: Follow us next week as we spend a week in Rioja tasting wines, visitng bodegas and doing a few things off the beaten track. I am a Rioja skeptic. I know Rioja makes great wines, but lately I’ve had trouble finding them. This next week is my chance to explore and search for some of the hidden treasures in Rioja. I’m really looking forward to what we find.

Thanks Ryan! Head over to catavino.net to follow Ryan as he spends a great week in La Rioja, and do let us know, do you drink it? Or do you venture into other wine regions of Spain?

Categories
Spanish Food and Drink

Jamon Serrano and Jamon Iberico – What’s the difference?

Vacuum-packed Jamon Iberico

Photo: Vacuum-Packed Jamon Iberico – the single greatest souvenir a returning Spain-traveler can bestow on their loved ones.

Jamon Serrano:

– Doesn’t generally taste as good as Jamon Iberico.
– Is likely to choke you to death if you don’t cut it up into small pieces before putting it into your bocadillo (bread roll). I don’t want to go into details but beleive me, if you start swallowing half a 10 inch strip while still chewing the rest… scary… Spanish parents always chop Jamon Serrano up small for their kids for this very reason.
– Is usually machine-sliced and is more likely to be found in cheap bocadillos (which are therefore more likely to choke you!)

Jamon Iberico:

– Tastes so much better… alone, with morsels of bread, even with “is-this-nirvana?” jamon, egg and chips.
– Tends to be cut by hand, sliced thinner and in smaller sized pieces, and therefore:
– Is less likely to choke you when:
– Found in more expensive bocadillos.

These are fairly random observations (from someone who recently nearly choked to death on a cheap, train-buffet Jamon Serrano sandwich). But what is the actual physical difference between the two types of ham? I suspect there is an Iberico ham pig and a less refined Serrano ham pig. But within the Iberico pig category there are those with black feet (Pata negra), and others that are only fed on acorns (bellotas) for the last year of their life.

I know that eating pata negra, bellota-fed jamon iberico makes you feel somehow closer to heaven, but if anyone can help clear up the exact differences between Jamon Iberico and Jamon Serrano, I’d be very grateful! Answers/thoughts in the comments please!

Categories
Racism in Spain Spanish Culture and News

The Curious Case of the Chinese in Spain

Chinese Wedding in Madrid

If you take a walk around Madrid’s Retiro Park on a Tuesday afternoon, you are bound to come across one or two Chinese wedding parties. The bride and groom are being photographed in picturesque settings by a Chinese photographer, and videoed by a Chinese cameraman and his Chinese assistant. Amongst their party there is never a Spaniard to be seen.

Fair enough, you may say, but this is pretty much representative of the level of social integration that the Chinese have gone for in Spain: nada. On a scale of 1 to 100, I’d go for about 3. The Chinese have been here for years, yet their community is private, busy, and seemingly quite content. Yes, the children go to Spanish schools, speak better Spanish than their parents, and often work the tills in the numerous barrio corner shops, but in ten years I have yet to see a Chinese-Spanish couple holding hands in the street.

The Chinese run restaurants, corner shops, and One Euro (formely 100 peseta) shops. They allegedly make quite a lot of money from pirated music and movies, which you often see Chinese women flogging in busy bars until way past midnight. This fits in with reports of a large Chinese mafia at work in Spain, but you never hear of them interacting with any other bad guys, or flashing money at bent Spanish politicians. Once again, the Chinese keep themselves to themselves.

How long has there been a significant Chinese population in Spain? I have no idea, but certainly long enough for them to enter the Spanish vernacular: Trabajar como un chino, to work like a Chinaman, means you work damn hard, for example, and Suena a cuento chino, means something sounds like a tall story. I’m not sure the Chinese in Spain would be too offended by either of those. (Update: see comments for more on these phrases).

I suspect the case of the complete acceptance of the Chinese fits into the Spain and Racism debate somewhere. I’ve certainly never heard a bad word against them (suspicion of their privacy aside). In fact, most of the Spaniards I have met find their restaurants and shops extremely useful and are happy to have them in town. Perhaps there is hope for other immigrant groups yet!

(Above photo for the first and probably last time ©iStockphoto.com/Phil Date – I had a pic of my own from a wedding party in the park today, but if felt kind of rude to use it on the couple’s wedding night without asking first. Normal photographic service will resume forthwith.)

Categories
Spanish Culture and News

What is the Essence of Spain?

What is the essence of Spain? I’m talking about physical things you can see, hear, touch, things that are unique to the landscape of Spanish life. If we were talking about the UK for example, I might think of starched white grass on frost-bitten mornings, newsagents, PG Tips tea, carpeted living rooms, gastro pubs, billowing green trees, light rain, the M25… things that just say: The British Isles.

By the same token, what is the essence of Spain? What are those unique physical and sensory pointers that combine to let you know This is Spain, not France, Britain, Australia, or anywhere else… just Spain.

Here are a few of the things that come to my mind:

The Menu del Dia
Distant sawtooth mountains
Dry meseta plains
Cola Cao
Appartment buildings
El Pais
Cafe con Leche
Langostinos
Bumper to bumper driving on motorways
Waiters in waistcoats
Bright blue skies
Small dogs
Children playing in warm Plazas at midnight
The noisy front-line of bodies and parasols on hot Mediterranean beaches

I really want to develop this list: What would you add?

Categories
Racism in Spain Spanish Culture and News

Racism in Spain – Hamilton and the F1 Disgrace

Much has already been written about this in other blogs, our forum, and in the news in Spain and the UK, but I don’t think it can be given too much attention.

The fact that Lewis Hamilton endured the usual bout of racist remarks (puto negro etc) as he tested this weekend at Barcelona’s Montmelo circuit is bad enough, but the fact that in this day and age there are people who thought it acceptable to black-up boot-polish style and acutally appear in public in the stands (wearing T-shirts saying “Hamilton’s Family”) is quite astounding. It puts Spain about 20 years behind the UK in terms of what might be considered acceptable social human behavior.

Of course racism is still a problem in the UK and beyond, but nowadays most racist idiots have the wherewithal to keep it to private conversations, or behind closed doors.

The regulatory body behind Formula 1 has apparently threatened to pull out of at least one of the two races planned for Spain later in the year (in Barcelona and Valencia) if there is any more of this nonsense, but I’m willing to bet that 1) there will be, and 2) absolutely nothing will happen as a result.

In terms of preparing and developing intelligent, open attitudes for the integrated, plural society that Spain has no choice but to accept it is fast becoming, it seems there is still a very very long way to go. There is trouble ahead, but hard and fast punitive action now could make a substantial difference. Let’s see if Formula 1, for a start, has the balls to put it’s money where it’s mouth is.

Categories
Spain Travel

Spain to become High-Speed-Train-Spotters Dream

“The [220mph] Ave S103 is the kind of train that British commuters can only dream of, and forms the centrepiece of plans to make Spain a model for the rest of Europe, and the world leader in high-speed trains by 2010.”

“The aim is to have 10,000km (6,200 miles) of high-speed track in Spain by 2020, meaning that 90% of the population will be no more than 30 miles from a station through which the train passes.” Whether the train actually stops in said stations may be another matter…

Full article in the Guardian

Categories
Spanish Culture and News

Bloody Madrid Sunset

Blood bus at sunset

Photo: 6.30 pm in the Retiro Park

El Pais thinks the crazy pollution levels we are experiencing in Madrid this week are responsible for skies like these. The government still optimistically blames Saharan dust and, against the risk of the entire city suffering collective asthmatic collapse, continues to tell us that under no circumstances should we attempt to take any physical exercise outdoors. Lovely. We are probably far better off in Madrid’s smoggy, smoke-filled bars.

About the bus: I once heard that the British are not allowed to donate blood in Spain as we are all potentially walking around full of Mad Cow Disease. Nice to know there’s still something in store if the Madrid air doesn’t polish us off first!

Categories
Spanish Food and Drink

Is Spanish Food Oily? Say Hello to the Plato Alpujarreño

Plato Alpujarreño

There was a healthly (?) discussion on the forum recently about whether or not Spanish food is oily. Quote: “the amount of oil most dishes are served with is mind boggling.” The basic consensus though, was that Spanish food is essentially oily in a good way. I mean, you can’t get enough of that anti-oxidising, extra-vigin, life-restoring olive oil, can you?

Well, my friends, I fear that some may draw the line at the Plato Alpujarreño.

Pictured above, and served up throughout the wonderful mountain range to the south of Granada, this cacophony of meat and not-very-extra-virgin grease slips down a treat. From the top we’ve got Jamon, Chorizo, Morcilla (no rice in this one, just the congealed pigs blood), a good slab of pork chop, the fried egg and, the coup de grasa, the oiliest of all oily potatoes: patatas a lo pobre.

Absolutely spot on after a day in the mountains 8) Would you eat it?

Categories
notes

What do you want to see next on Notes from Spain?

We recently asked people what they wanted us to talk about on our Notes in Spanish podcasts, and we got lots of great ideas. So, I’d like to ask the same here at Notes from Spain. After all, one of my favourite podcasts of recent months, on Ramirez Guitars, came from a reader suggestion sent in by email.

What would you like to see on this blog? What would you like me or others to write or podcast about from here in Spain? Please (please!) write suggestions in the comments below, or send them in by email if you prefer.

Thanks, I can’t wait to hear your suggestions. Ben

Categories
Film Spanish Culture and News

Do Not See: The Oxford Murders

We were really looking forward to this film. It’s set in the town I grew up in (there’s a clue in the title), has a pretty good cast (John Hurt, Elijah Wood, Leonor Watling) and is directed by Alex de la Iglesia, who so perfectly depicted the horrors of living in a Madrid apartment building in La Comunidad.

So, what went wrong? Here are the top 3 disasters:

  • With the exception of John Hurt, who can probably act his way out of the worst script on earth, all of the performances were painfully flat.
  • The script is almost certainly to blame for this. I suspect it started out in Spanish… and that Google Translator may have come up with the final English version.
  • We weren’t allowed to work a thing out for ourselves. Every painful twist in the plot (people die, mathematical series may hold the key) had to be deliberately explained.

With the exception of young men who probably feel that seeing Leonor Watling in nothing but a kitchen apron is worth the price of admission alone (and Alex de la Iglesia may have been banking on this), there really is nothing to recommend this film at all. What a shame. It had all the makings of the kind of blockbuster that could have added a little shine to Spain’s spiraling film industry.

(God it’s hard writing film reviews at midnight on a Sunday night… I wish South of Watford had seen it first then I could have just linked to one of his great reviews instead! Still, I hope you get the message. The film was pretty crap. Apart from the apron scene. But don’t tell Marina I said that.)

What’s your all-time favourite, or worst, film from Spain?